The Clown’s New Circus: Reflections on Auguste, London’s Latest Culinary Spectacle
There’s something inherently captivating about a restaurant named after a clown, especially when it’s nestled in the heart of Hackney, London. Auguste, the brainchild of chef Mike Bagnall and general manager Dylan Walters, is more than just a dining spot—it’s a cultural statement. Personally, I think the name itself is a masterstroke. It’s whimsical, yet poignant, much like the Edward Hopper painting Soir Bleu that adorns its walls. That forlorn clown, surrounded by hipsters, feels like a metaphor for the modern hospitality industry. Paint on a smile, they say, even as the weight of business rates and customer expectations bears down. What makes this particularly fascinating is how Auguste seems to embrace this duality—a place where the theatricality of dining meets the raw realities of running a restaurant in 2023.
The Space: A Hipster’s Paradise, Reimagined
Auguste occupies the space once held by Papi, a darling of London’s food scene that recently relocated. From my perspective, the transformation is both subtle and striking. White tablecloths now grace the tables, a nod to elegance, yet the vibe remains unabashedly hip. The menu, too, has shifted focus to Abruzzo, a region in central Italy known for its rustic, hearty cuisine. But here’s the thing: Auguste isn’t just serving food; it’s selling an experience. The arrosticini—tiny skewers grilled over a furnacella—are the star attraction. Man make fire. Fire good. It’s a primal, almost ritualistic element that taps into something deeper. What many people don’t realize is that this live-fire trend isn’t just about flavor; it’s about storytelling, about connecting diners to something ancient and unpretentious.
The Food: Fleeting Moments of Brilliance
On a Wednesday night, just three weeks after opening, Auguste was buzzing. The crowd, seemingly loyal transplants from Papi, was there for the spectacle. We ordered the arrosticini—salt marsh lamb, Suffolk wagyu, and rose veal liver—but they didn’t arrive until just before dessert. In my opinion, this is where the small plates format falters. There’s no rhythm, no narrative to the meal. It’s a collection of moments, some brilliant, others forgettable. The chicken saltimbocca, for instance, was a standout—prosciutto-wrapped, sage-infused, and finished with a rich jus. But the potato rösti, though delicious, was too soft to support its blue cheese cream topping. If you take a step back and think about it, this inconsistency is emblematic of Auguste’s identity: a restaurant still finding its footing, juggling ambition with execution.
The Clowning Around: Where Auguste Falls Short
One thing that immediately stands out is Auguste’s penchant for theatrics. £5 Campari cocktails? Check. Pristine linen paired with meat on sticks? Absolutely. But beneath the veneer, there’s a sense of disjointedness. The puttanesca salsa, for example, was overly allium-heavy, overwhelming the delicate sea bream. The dessert, a mascarpone and spiced rum tart, was rustic to the point of being undercooked. What this really suggests is that Auguste is still experimenting, still trying to strike a balance between its high-concept vision and the practicalities of running a kitchen. A detail that I find especially interesting is how the restaurant’s loyal fanbase seems unfazed by these missteps. They’re here for the vibe, not just the food.
The Broader Trend: Hospitality’s High-Wire Act
Auguste isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a microcosm of the hospitality industry’s current state. The live-fire craze, the small plates format, the emphasis on regional Italian cuisine—these are all part of a larger trend. But what’s often overlooked is the emotional labor involved. The clown on the wall isn’t just a decorative choice; it’s a reminder of the masks we all wear, especially those in service. This raises a deeper question: Can a restaurant sustain itself on atmosphere alone? Personally, I think Auguste has the potential to be more than just a fleeting moment in London’s dining scene. But it needs to tighten its act, to find coherence in its chaos.
Final Thoughts: A Circus Worth Visiting?
Auguste is far from perfect, but that’s part of its charm. It’s a restaurant that feels alive, raw, and unapologetically ambitious. From my perspective, its greatest strength—and weakness—is its willingness to take risks. The arrosticini, the saltimbocca, the Campari cocktails—these are all elements of a larger spectacle. But as with any circus, there are moments when the magic falters. What Auguste needs now is time, to refine its act and find its rhythm. Until then, it remains a fascinating study in contrasts: elegance and chaos, tradition and innovation, the clown and the chef. If you’re in Hackney, it’s worth a visit—just don’t expect perfection. After all, even the greatest circuses have their off nights.
Details:
- Location: 373 Mentmore Terrace, London E8
- Hours: Dinner Weds-Sat 5.30-10.30pm (11pm Fri & Sat), Lunch Sat 12.30-3.30pm
- Price: From £50 a head à la carte, plus drinks and service.
